(ad – pr) York has such a range of places to eat these days which fulfil so many criteria that it can be easy to get blinkered and not look further afield. Leeds is easy enough to train it over to but Harrogate takes a little more commitment thanks to the rather less refined rail links. That can’t always be an excuse though so recently I made my way by car over to Harrogate to the Cedar Court Hotel to check out the refurbishment that’s resulted in the opening of Amber’s Restaurant. There’s clearly been a large amount of money spent on this place to bring it right up to scratch and the impression when entering the restaurant is certainly of opulence and grandeur.
The hotel itself was welcoming in the typical comfortably upmarket style of places like this but walking into Amber’s Restaurant is a distinct and impressive experience. They’ve also spent the time and money to bring what was a large corridor right up to date which will function as a buffet or mingling space but the private dining room is even more striking. Some private dining spaces can feel a little tokenistic or an addendum to the main space but there’s nothing of the sort here. Sofas and subtly included TVs fill some of the sprawl of this space which feels homely and comforting without losing that sense of luxury and indulgence. One could easily fill an entire day of meals here with a family or group of friends, periodically retiring across the room to relax.
As a steady buzz of Instagrammers (is that the collective term?) worked the room over we took on a brace of starters, which had been chosen for us. Citrus cured salmon with crispy capers and beetroot along with a heavily seasoned cream was well executed and benefitted from the sharp hit of those capers to bring drama to the soft ribbons of salmon. Beetroot and salmon being a well trodden path for good reason, this was a well concieved plate that could have been further lifted with a crunch of a sourdough crisp or similar for texture, as was found on the other starter of home corned beef brisket. The brisket had a pleasing richness to be tempered by pickled vegetables and a few baby potatoes, a reassuring pair of starters.
For mains we went for stone bass and duck breast, both comforting dishes with a good mellow sense of nostalgia and indulgence. The duck came with fondant potato which easily yielded to my cutlery with buttery smoothness as well as sweet carrot and a sweet blackberry jus. A few more blackberries on the plate and a bed of baby spinach finished the dish off. The success of a plate such as this really depends on the execution of the duck, which must be pink and well rested with the fat layer adequately rendered but not at the expense of overcooked skin. This example walked that line nicely, showing a deft touch from the chef that was a suitable centrepiece for this well put together dish; the fondant potato also being another potential pitfall avoided. The stone bass came with a few greens and potatoes but the sauce really starred on this, with a lustrous and creamy indulgence cut against pops of freshness from peas. The stone bass itself showed the same skilled touch as the duck, making for a pair of well executed main courses.
A pair of desserts featuring various sweet textures, with shards, brownie, parfait and fruit spread across a couple of plates finished things off nicely, the sugar rush jerking us away from somnambulance ready for the journey home. Amber’s Restaurant delivers a range of classic dishes that are satisfying and confidently put together, served in a beautiful new dining room. It’s easy to feel a sense of occasion in surroundings as refined as this.
