I’ve had a lot of tasting menus in my time and am now well acquainted with the flow and rhythm of plates that issue forth from esteemed kitchens. That’s certainly not meant as a complaint and when one is well executed it can be a fantastic thing, but some can feel a bit samey after all these years so new twists on the format, such as that which I recently enjoyed at Legacy, are always refreshing. Similarly to that format tweak, a chef who takes a slightly different approach to sourcing and technique can be intriguing. Step forward Nina Matsunaga who’s leading a new fine dining concept over towards the Lake District, Tsuchi at The Black Bull in Sedburgh. With German and Japanese influences advertised, I was certainly curious as to what was in store while I made the journey over the A66 on a sunny Autumn day. Sedburgh was new to me and it took me a couple of runs down the high street before I found somewhere to abandon the car and get settled, but I quickly warmed to it. The Black Bull had been kind enough to provide a room for me to stay in which much exceeded my expectations in terms of floorspace, amenity and comfort with a separate seating area and a glass walled bathroom in the middle of the room (don’t worry, there are curtains to protect one’s modesty as needed) as well as deep window seats, perfect for people watching.
With my minimal baggage deposited safely in the room, I took myself for a stroll around town, settling in a local pub with a book for half an hour before returning to Tsuchi at The Black Bull to take my seat for dinner in a dining room that was minimalist without tipping into austerity. A number of dishes on the menu piqued my curiosity and offered elements rarely seen in this kind of setting. First up though the usual trio of canapés, this time featuring a cheese fritter showcasing Mrs Kirkhams, a lamb tartare tartlet and a grilled Lindisfarne oyster. The first two of these were exactly the sort of preamble one would want before embarking on the rest of the menu, but I was struck in particular by the sweetly dressed oyster which had benefitted hugely from exposure to heat. Oysters are very much a take or leave item for me but this was a very pleasant surprise. Bread and butter up next presented the the usual test of restraint as I tried not to fill up while slathering it with the delightful cultured butter.
The first “proper” course used mushroom as a carrier for kombucha and was livened up with a few petals to break up the pallette. On eating there was an intelligently measured spice that earned fulsome praise from another couple who were dining that night, a sentiment I would echo. A distinctive and strong start that was followed by an optional scallop dish which I couldn’t resist when I noted it was served with gooseberry and kohlrabi. This was another unique pairing that I hadn’t come across before and could have ended up earning such euphemistic praise as being “intriguing” but thankfully was just plain tasty and perfectly executed. The gentle earthiness of the kohlrabi offset the indulgent sweetness of the scallop neatly.
Next up was another new one to me in the form of teal which had been cured. This small duck had a deep and slightly gamey richness that made great friends with the Jerusalem artichoke accompanying it and a generous splodge of caviar for seasoning; a great introduction to this meat for me. More meat came next in the form of a perfectly presented piece of beef served with “Tokyo Turnip” and Nori seasoning. When I posted this one to Instagram, someone commented on what a perfectly cooked piece of beef this was and I can’t agree more, with rich braised beef on the side too. The dainty turnip was just as memorable with a lovely delicate flavour to show off and accent the beef.
Sweet dishes were no less accomplished with yuzu and matcha represented across the brace of courses that also used meadowsweet for an aromatic accent somewhat reminiscent of marzipan. These striking dishes were a perfect exclamation point to end a very special meal that also came with thoughtful wine pairing; the plum sake with desserts working particularly well to elevate both elements. This meal was within the first two weeks of Tsuchi being open but there was no sign of a concept being bedded in or any early teething problems, just a quiet confidence in the dishes and the people serving them. The marriage of quality local produce to elements that represent the chef’s character can be a compelling one and it really is so here, with clever accents brought to the dishes and a polished front of house keeping things ticking along nicely.
Breakfast the following day took place in the same comfortable dining area with mackerel and scrambled egg setting me up well for the return to York after a night in that tremendous hotel room. Tsuchi at The Black Bull is a destination worthy of a journey and the opportunity to stay in such a well appointed establishment afterwards is a compelling combination worthy of your time and money.
