I’m a big fan of pubs. They bring together people who would never otherwise connect, create all manner of social interactions as well as hosting diverse community groups, live music and so on. They truly are at the heart of communities across Britain. That being the case, I find it enormously frustrating when you walk into a ‘pub’ and find every table reserved for diners and the general ambience of a restaurant that undercuts that community role a great pub settles into. One of the main offenders here can be “gastropubs” (excuse the rather outdated term but you get the point) who prioritise food above all else. There are notable exceptions to this such as The Star at Harome that does an admirable job of welcoming you for ‘just’ a pint rather than just pushing three-figure tasting menus to all and sundry. Recently I made my way up to just the right side of the Scottish border to visit The Pentonbridge Inn and see how their attempt to balance those priorities worked out.
The Pentonbridge Inn is a remote outpost with little around it to distract from eating and drinking within its confines. The views from the car park are unsurprisingly remarkable and the overall effect is of isolation and escape. With a Michelin star proudly held for three years and 3 AA Rosettes, there’s little to doubt the credentials of the kitchen here, but first impressions as one enters are of a welcoming bar space, basic without feeling sparse, and with a pleasant hubbub. After settling into my comfortable room, I had a bit of a shock at the bar with less than a fiver demanded of me in return for a pint. I know this isn’t in the costly South where I’ve recently taken a £7.25 beating for a pint, but that’s still more than accessible enough for a Michelin Star establishment.
Having established The Pentonville Inn’s credentials as a pub were intact and having readied myself for dinner, I took refuge in the corner of the room and surveyed my surroundings in preparation for the serious business of dinner. An open kitchen gave view of clearly well disciplined chefs working efficiently and with purpose, dutifully ticking off dishes on a chart as they worked their way through service. First up, in typical fine dining style, was a trio of bites showcasing Montgomery Cheddar, beetroot and Limousin Beef. Each bite presented itself on delightful bespoke tableware and delivered impressive injections of the promised flavours, with beetroot being worked into a macaron to memorable effect and a delicate beef tartare playing strongly toward my preferences. Next up, fresh peas worked their magic against a savoury Japanese-style custard before bread appeared with house-made butter as well as a deeply meaty potted beef that compelled me to eat more than was probably wise for my appetite.
Next up was a first fish dish that showcased mackerel with a fresh backdrop of tomato and seasoning via another delicate tart case with generous quantities of caviar and a peppery nasturtium backdrop. With a vibrant green herb oil splitting the sauce for visual appeal, this was a confidently executed dish that preceded another fish dish. This time, it was a piece of halibut joined on the plate by langoustine and cauliflower with a lobster sauce bringing cohesion to the experience; another well-judged and executed dish with bags of flavour and indulgence. The meat course followed after an appropriate pause to catch breath and made lamb its centrepiece. Augmented by smoked beetroot and a carrot puree, it also pulled haggis just across the border into the mix with a topping of earthy mushrooms. The sauce across it was so shiny as to be almost a reflective surface with there being bags of flavour to back that up too. A generous helping of smooth and rich potato to luxuriate in made sure this was a hearty and well put together plate to round off the savoury elements.
I skipped the cheese course on the basis that I’m well familiar with how good Kit Calvert and Yorkshire Blue are, so found myself next on the precipice of two sweet dishes, the first of which centred around milk and honey with a superb ice cream joined by shards of honeycomb, whilst the second was a Mille Feuille making use of raspberry and white chocolate. Petit Fours were a step too far for my appetite by this point but were very much appreciated as snack later on. The rest of the stay was seamless with the well-appointed room carrying me through to a hearty breakfast just the way I hoped.
This meal hit all the notes I expect for a Michelin and 3 AA Rosette starred spot with the impeccable service provided by clearly knowledgable servers and every bit of food delivering everything you could hope of it. The sense of indulgence conveyed by the plates of refined food was palpable. This is somewhere I’d unreservedly recommend you getting booked into for a night of indulgence and escapism.
